Shad Roe at The Press Room Shepherdstown, WV

In between the miles of duck breast and short ribs, I’ve been longing for something light. So when the server at the Press Room mentioned shad roe, I was hooked. My grandmother used to make shad roe, which she called somewhat redundently, roe of the fish (or perhaps, roe of The Fish since shad is pretty much alone in this regard). Anyway, I’m thinking light.

Along the way comes a gorgonzola custard, a creamy custard with candied walnuts, candied fresh cranberries, dead ripe pears and some arugula. Decidedly not light, given the custard, but tasty, with the gorgonzola taste out front but not dominating. The fresh cranberries are a great touch and the pears are, well simply, ripe. Anjous, I think, because of the peel.

The shad roe, which is apparently coming up the coast from North Carolina, comes as two sacs atop grilled oblique cuts of toasted baguette. Butter caper sauce, a little thickened, and red pickled onions and watercress. The scalloped potatoes aren’t helping my light eating, but what the hey, it’s fresh, it’s local, and the capers and onions offset the richness of the roe. They are slightly fishy and gritty to the tongue, but not in a bad way. Grandma cut the sacs and sauteed the roe in butter. These have been baked, I think, a better treatment. My attempts to cook them have all resulted in failure.

Nice meal. As I am sipping the coffee (hazelnut, yech), I hear the server talking ramps with the couple at the next table. Wild leeks, seasonal, local, and served over black linguini. I know where I am eating on Wednesday.


Comments

Shad Roe at The Press Room Shepherdstown, WV — 3 Comments

  1. I’m here until Thursday. I’ve eaten at Stone Soup before and liked it. The others are a little far for me, since I am staying at the Conservation Training Center. I ate at Three Onions a while back, but it wasn’t the same as formerly and I see on the ‘net that it is more a drinks and snacks place these days.

    I’ll probably hit Stone Soup tonight and Press Room again on Wed. Ah the joys of travel–you get to eat out every night.

  2. Are you in the Shepherdstown area? The Press Room is probably our favorite restaurant but there are some other great locally-sourced places for meals to try, like Stone Soup Bistro, Dish in Charles Town and Palettie in Boonsboro, MD. And if you can get a reservation at VOLT in Frederick, it is really worth a visit.

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